The solar wind ripples through the heavens, spilling electric-green light into the night. It’s quiet enough to hear the whispering night air send snowflakes aswirl, and I all but forget about the cold—a pulse-stopping -5 degrees Fahrenheit. Instead, I delight in the marvel of the northern lights.

In all honesty, I didn’t expect the northern lights to be this vivid, swirling like a lava lamp across the sky. I always thought the “dancing” light was just a trick of the camera. But here, just a little after midnight in a soundless, snow-shushed forest in remote Lapland, I am proven wrong.

“The name for the aurora borealis is revontulet in Finnish,” my guide Henri tells me as he gets off his snowmobile and pours me a cup of hot berry juice. “It literally means ‘fox fire.’ The old belief was that there was a fire fox, running through the woods, and when its tail hit the trees or stones, it sent sparkles to the sky.”

Needless to say, watching the fire fox’s sparkles dance among the heavens as I sipped steaming berry juice was an obvious highlight of my stay at Reindeer Manor, a 10-igloo hotel in the heart of Finland’s Arctic Circle. But my time there was filled with many once-in-a-lifetime moments like this: Driving a snowmobile over a frozen lake as early dusk descends; scratching the ears of blue-eyed huskies after a sleigh ride; feeling the velvety snout of reindeer against my glove while they munched mossy lichen from my hands. There are simple moments, too, like trying Finnish vodka in front of the wood-fed fire in Reindeer Manor’s main lodge—a cozy log cabin made of pine—and defrosting cold-bitten limbs in my hot tub while watching a pale white winter sun make its low arc across the sky.

Here’s what it’s like to stay at Reindeer Manor.

The Rooms 

10 freestanding igloos, each with a private hot tub, sit in two rows—they’re about a five-minute walk from Reindeer Manor’s main lodge. The igloos are quite close to each other, but fences help with privacy. They all have a similar layout, with large, heated windows that offer dazzling sky views. However, some igloos have a little more space, perfect for adding an extra bed for one adult or two kids. The design is fairly minimalist, with only a few pine sprigs, a furry blanket, and faux tea lights to create some ambiance; the wet room-style bathrooms are similarly pared-back. There’s also a decent minibar stocked with local treats, including the pale lager Karhu and Karl Fazer chocolates.

Food and Drink

All meals are served in Reindeer Manor’s pine-hewn main lodge. Breakfast is a succinct buffet spread of blueberry juice, cured fish, reindeer sausage, and soft Lappi cheese, as well as à la carte dishes (try the crepe-like Finnish pancake, served under an avalanche of whipped cream). Lunch is a choice of soups (I opted for the lohikeitto, a creamy salmon soup, served with a flurry of dill), and supper is a warming, candle-lit affair, with a tasting menu and à la carte options. I had fork-tender willow grouse drizzled with black currant sauce paired with a Bordeaux, and for dessert, citrusy cloudberry sorbet. Service is faultless, and it’s easy to become friends with the lovely staff. “It makes me proud to serve food that is pretty much all local,” my charming server, Kat, said to me more than once.

Activities and Experiences

Nature is the star of the show in this part of Finland, and most of your time will be spent outdoors. Snowmobiling, husky-pulled sleigh rides, reindeer feeding, ice fishing, and snowshoeing—Reindeer Manor has it all. The snowmobiling (which you can only do on marked trails to protect native flora and fauna) was especially enjoyable and memorable. On my trip, Henri took me to a cabin café deep in the woods, only reachable by snowmobile, for coffee and sugar-dusted Finnish donuts. A delight!

Animal welfare is of utmost importance, and Reindeer Manor maintains good living conditions for the on-site reindeer and huskies. There is also a clear focus on Lappish and local traditions. For example, the reindeer are cared for by Niilo, who is Sámi (the indigenous peoples who live across Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia). And after spending time with the reindeer, guests can warm up in a traditional Finnish hut called a kota and enjoy gingerbread cookies around the fire while listening to Niilo tell stories.

The northern lights are a large part of Reindeer Manor’s draw, and it does everything in its power to help guests see them. The hotel is open seasonally from November to April—prime time for spotting the lights. Guests also get access to a northern lights alert app, and nighttime northern lights excursions (via sleigh, snowmobile, or van) can also be booked.

Family-friendly Offerings

Children are welcome at Reindeer Manor, and there are plenty of itineraries to suit young ones, especially during the holiday season, such as reindeer feeding, trips to Santa’s Village, and ski school in Levi. There is no official children’s menu, but the kitchen is fairly flexible and always has something on hand. Two mini-snowmobiles are also available and suitable for children that are 4 to 12 years old.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Meals feature ingredients that are foraged and sourced from small, nearby producers. Lunches and dinners are served à la carte to reduce food wastage. For outdoor meals, eco-dishware Kupilka is used in place of disposable plates, and any compostable waste, metal, glass, cardboard, and plastics are recycled.

The rooms at Reindeer Manor are not ADA compliant.

Location

Reindeer Manor is less than 10 miles (about a 15-minute drive) from Kittilä International Airport (KTT). You don’t necessarily need to rent a car since the hotel can arrange transportation for guests, and the roads are snowy and icy in the winter. The area is great for snow sports beginners, and there are a range of beginner-friendly and expert runs in the area. This part of Finland is also well-known for its Santa-themed activities, and Reindeer Manor is less than two hours from Santa Claus’ Village in Rovaniemi.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Reindeer Manor is not currently a part of any loyalty or luxury credit card travel programs. However, the hotel does offer seasonal packages, which bundle the cost of activities with room and board.