On a farm in West Sussex, I’m standing next to a handsome piebald Irish cob. Jenny is close to 16 hands, with stocky feathered legs, a flowing mane and gentle demeanour. I’m quite wary of horses, but as I watch her belly expanding slowly as she breathes, and notice her long eyelashes and velvet-soft nose, I feel entranced and completely relaxed.
I’m at Westerlands, a regenerative farm in Graffham, in the South Downs national park, for a back-to-nature experience, staying in a new cabin and sampling an “equestrian wellness” session. Run by stable manager and equine behaviourist Elly Middleton, with wellness coach Gemma Peterson, the monthly workshops offer people the chance to spend time with horses, slow down and recharge (they can be tailored and booked privately, too).
“We can learn a lot from horses, they are masters of mindfulness and deeply intuitive,” says Elly. “The farm’s whole ethos is about healing in nature. Just being with a horse can have therapeutic benefits, teaching us wellbeing techniques, such as how to be in the moment.”
The two-hour session begins with breathwork, meditation and journalling led by Gemma, before we meet the horses and are encouraged to connect with “touch, feel and smell”. As I stand quietly by Jenny’s side, stroking her neck, her head bows towards mine – and I feel myself physically relax and my mind still. It’s a simple but strangely powerful experience. We finish with restorative yoga nidra by an open fire and I practically float back to my cabin.
A former racehorse stud farm (and seasonal home for polo ponies), Westerlands has been owned by the Jamison family since the 1980s. In recent years, it has begun to transition into a “regenerative farm”, managed for nature, with the aim of increasing biodiversity and protecting the environment. It is very much a family affair, with Antonia Jamison and her husband, Oliver, at the helm, along with sisters Emma (an artist who shares a studio here with their mother, Pamela, also a painter) and Mel (a herbalist who guides foraging walks).
The family owns adjacent land on the top of the Downs, too, including nature reserves managed by the Graffham Down Trust. Bordering the South Downs Way, it’s a magical stretch of chalk downland and woods, with ancient yews, meadows and panoramic views to the sea. It’s all part of the Weald to Waves initiative to create a 100-mile nature recovery corridor across Sussex from the High Weald to the coast.
To restore soil health, the number of sheep and cattle on the farm is limited, and just eight horses remain at the equestrian centre for trekking and horse connection experiences. Beekeeping (honey is for sale), planting edible hedgerows and rewilding are among the plans for restoration, along with hosting events and encouraging visitors to explore.
“We’re very much on a journey to restore the land and create community, giving more opportunities for people to connect with nature,” says Antonia. “By giving nature space, we’ve seen a lot of changes in a short time, with more insects and birdlife already. Westerlands is a place of peace, and we want it to be accessible to everyone.”
Central to the new model is a growing range of accommodation, from cabins and cottages to converted barns. Woodfire Campsite operates from one of the paddocks, with its outdoor kitchen creating delicious communal meals that all guests can join.
I’m staying in the newest cabin – Timber Country – in a vast field of its own. Built sustainably with local wood, the cabin sleeps four and is off-grid, with sweeping countryside views and a covered outdoor bath (the Downs is a dark sky reserve and there’s a telescope to rent for clear nights too).
This is a beautiful part of the world, with plentiful walks and great pubs (the Cricketers at Duncton is a favourite). Footpaths lead to Graffham village, Lavington Common nature reserve lies to the north, Petworth is 10 minutes’ drive away, and ebikes can be hired to explore further. But I don’t venture far as there’s plenty to do on the farm.
After coffee at Horsebox Cafe (in a vintage horsebox repurposed by Emma), I head to the WildSpa, a recent addition with sauna and spring-fed plunge pool in a private garden, and to the Rose Room in a 17th-century cottage for reflexology with Louise (treatments range from massage to reiki and life coaching). It’s blissful. There’s the WildFit outdoor green gym, too, with regular classes from circuits to kettlebells (and the option to book private classes, from yoga to resistance training).
Horses are at the heart of Westerlands and the next morning I reunite with Jenny for a trek through the farm and countryside. Riders of all levels and ages are catered for (three is the minimum age), while non-riders can sign up for 45-minute horse connection sessions. Owners can even bring their horses on holiday. I’ve not ridden for a while, but it’s a joy to meander through the woodlands in the spring sunshine.
Back at the stables, I learn about medicinal herbs the horses are fed and see the “herb cafe”, where they select the plants they need to thrive. “Horses have the ability to recognise what they need for therapeutic purposes,” Elly explains, “for example, lemon balm for antihistamine, rosehip for joints. They’re drawn to what they need.”
The peace of Westerlands soon works its magic and I leave feeling rejuvenated and inspired by the transformation that’s taking place. I remember the teachings from the workshop – the benefits of slowing down and being more present – and Elly’s words of advice ring in my mind: “Basically, be more horse.” I think that will be my motto from now on.
The trip was provided by Westerlands. Shepherd Hut (sleeps four) costs from £75 a night; Timber Country (sleeps four) from £139 a night. Gather, Reflect, Connect equine connection workshops cost £49pp for two hours. Horseriding from £35 for 30 minutes
Trot on: tips for new riders
1 Pick a British Horse Society-approved organisation (or its equivalent abroad) to guarantee a good standard of horses and trained staff.
2 Be honest about your riding experience. A good centre will match you with the right horse.
3 Keep calm. A lot of people arrive in a state of overexcitement, but staying calm and quiet is the best approach.
4 Approach the horse at the shoulder and greet it; it’s a partnership, you will be working together.
5 Wear sensible, weather-appropriate clothes like leggings or tracksuit bottoms, no shorts, vest tops or hoods. Boots should be jodhpur-style or riding boots, with a flat sole and small heel, no trainers. Always wear a riding helmet and a hi-vis vest.
6 Sit deep in the saddle with a straight back and relax the legs. The aim is to activate the core while maintaining supple shoulders and hips. You should be in line from shoulder to hip to heel. This helps you to balance so the horse can move well. Squeeze from the lower calves to move forward.
7 Be soft with the reins as they connect directly with the horse’s mouth. Keep shoulders soft and hands relaxed. If you can’t stay relaxed in the arms and hands, hold the front of the saddle.
Elly Middleton, Westerlands equestrian manager
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