You’d be forgiven for never hearing of Korčula, Croatia—a small Dalmatian island of just 106 square miles, neatly tucked beneath the country’s sprawling coastline, home to some of the best beaches in Croatia. Despite its proximity to ever-popular Dubrovnik and Hvar, Korčula gets decidedly less airtime than other idyllic stone towns in the Adriatic Sea. But look beyond the beloved TV-themed tours and penchant for partying of its neighbors, and you’ll find that this island is a gem that offers quiet beaches, unspoiled landscapes, and a crowd-free destination rich in fascinating history and culture. (And it’s pronounced KOR-chew-lah, with a slight roll of the R.)

When the ancient Greeks saw the island’s dense forests of holm oak and pine, they named it “Black Corfu” (Korkyra Melaina), and legend suggests Korčula was discovered by the Greek hero Antenor escaping from Troy. The island has seen much through the years, and the fortified medieval old town has picturesque cobbled streets, and beyond that await unspoiled beaches and coves, as well as acres of olive groves and vineyards producing local olive oil and wine. The small island is easy to explore in just a few days, and there are plenty of taxis and buses connecting the west to the east in around 45 minutes. Here’s how to discover Korčula, Croatia’s secret retreat.

A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK.

The best beaches on Korčula

Vila Pržina

Just a 15-minute drive from the old town is Lumbarda, a small fisherman’s village with the best— and only—sandy beaches on Korčula. Pržina means “sand” in the local Lumbardan dialect, and though it may not be large, Pržina Beach certainly lives up to its name. Its waters are warm year-round (you’ll find locals swimming as late in the year as November) and it has a volleyball court plus a beach bar serving drinks and snacks.

Bilin Zal

Just a few minutes from Pržina you’ll find the smaller but equally pretty Bilin Žal. It’s a favorite beach spot among families thanks to the shallow water that’s ideal for paddling and the stone wall backing that provides shelter from the sun. There’s a stone pier which juts out into the crystal-clear turquoise water, providing a lovely photo opportunity.

Proizd

Western Vela Luka, around 31 miles from Korčula town, boasts some nice beaches; Pičena Bay is a secluded picnic area with a few wooden sun loungers and rattan parasols certainly worth checking out. But most visitors use the bay as a jumping-off point for uninhabited Proizd, a 35-minute boat journey west of Korčula. Though the beaches here are mostly rocky, their unspoiled ruggedness—coupled with the distinct lack of tourists and impossibly clear waters—adds that much more charm.

Pupnatska Luka

The main draw of Korčula’s south coast is arguably Pupnatska Luka Beach, a pebble beach around a 20-minute drive from the old town. It has spectacular views over the glistening water to the island of Lastovo, and two cute seaside restaurants. Bring a beach umbrella as there’s little natural shade on the beach.

Vrnik

A short water taxi ride away from the old town is Korčula’s Vrink islet, a tiny island quietly loved by A-listers from Beyoncé and Jay-Z to Matthew McConaughey and Woody Harrelson. Though it’s known for its deep stone quarries dating back to Roman times, the pebble beach in front of the island’s only restaurant is perfect for paddling and sunbathing while sipping local wine.

Where to stay on Korčula

Aminess Korčula Heritage Hotel

This hotel was the very first to open on Korčula in 1912, and celebrated its 110th anniversary in 2022. Heritage Hotel is the ideal base for exploring the island, situated as it is on the seafront in the heart of the old town, with views over the yacht-filled quay and Pelješac Channel. Its 20 rooms are cosy and comfortable; its brasserie serves a buffet for breakfast and Dalmatian cuisine for lunch and dinner, and is located on a beautiful sun-soaked terrace overlooking the palm-lined promenade.

Lešić Dimitri Palace

A boutique bolthole unexpectedly nestled in the middle of the ancient old town, Lešić Dimitri Palace is housed in a restored 18th-century bishop’s palace and is the only five-star accommodation on Korčula. The hotel has six spacious suites to choose from, each designed by a team of Asian-Croatian architects and inspired by Marco Polo—a native of the island—and his travels along the Silk Road. Its Michelin-starred restaurant is not to be missed (more on that later), and its luxury spa, a rarity on the island, offers various types of massage and wellness treatments.

Hotel Liburna

Just a 15-minute stroll from the old town you’ll find Hotel Liburna, which boasts an impressively-sized outdoor pool on a round terrace with postcard-pretty views over the surrounding Pelješac slopes, sea, and the old town itself, just over the other side of the harbor. Most of its 112 rooms offer sea views too, as does the restaurant which offers both international and Mediterranean fare.

Prekrasna Villa

Over on the west of the island, Vela Luka is sparse in hotels, but plentiful in smart rental accommodation, most with sea views and private pools. As a result, this part of the island is home to many repeat tourists; often families with young children. Prekrasna Villa sleeps six guests and is near a promenade which offers sprawling views over the bay and neighboring pine forests, as well as quiet beaches at either end. The swimming pool is of course a major draw, too.

Aparthotel The Dreamers’ Club

Back on the east coast, Lumbarda is like Vela Luka in that it remains untarnished by large hotels and most guests opt for self-service options. The small, sleepy village, just under four miles from the old town, is home to the island’s only sandy beaches and is known for its laid-back atmosphere, making it the perfect base for families or couples looking for a relaxing retreat. The Eco Aparthotel ‘The Dreamers’ Club’ offers six picturesque apartments and terraces complete with sun loungers, hammocks, and a tree house.

Where to eat on Korčula

Filippi

Our most impressive dinner on the island was undoubtedly Filippi. The restaurant is situated on the seafront promenade in the old town and offers a three- or four-course menu, choosing from cold or hot starters, mains, and desserts. The fresh fish—particularly the tuna carpaccio and pan-fried sea bass—aren’t to be missed, but if you only order one thing, make it the homemade macaroni (a local speciality), washed down with the island’s best Grk or Pošip wine. Book a waterfront table at sunset so you can sit beneath the towering pine trees, listen to the sea lapping against the shore, and watch the sunset over nearby Badija island.

Adio Mare

Our taxi driver Antun affectionately referred to Adio Mare as “the best restaurant on Korčula.” The family-run tavern has hardly changed since it opened its doors in 1974. Hearty Dalmatian meat and fish dishes are prepared on an authentic barbecue, and you can sit on the terrace with picturesque views of the surrounding old town or on the long tables inside the old shipbuilding workshop, a reminder of what was once Korčula’s most important industry.

Pod Bore

Though most of Korčula’s most celebrated restaurants are found in the old town on the east of the island, Pod Bore draws locals and tourists alike to Vela Luka. The menu is extensive, but the black cuttlefish risotto, a Dalmatian speciality, is done particularly well here. Pop in for lunch or dinner and try to grab a table outside to enjoy the views of the boats bobbing on the harbor opposite.